Old floors
If the floor was installed, or last serviced, before the mid '60s, you should assume the finish used was varnish or shellac. To determine this, scratch the surface with a coin or other sharp object in a corner or other inconspicuous space. If the finish flakes, it is probably shellac or varnish. Shellac and varnish are rarely used anymore and require full sanding to remove before application of a surface finish or wax finish.

We offer this service - click here if you would like a free survey.

More Recent Floors
The type of finish on a wood floor dictates what proper maintenance steps should be followed. A homeowner should review the original floor installer's or refinisher's records, which should note the finish manufacturer and type of finish, applied to the wood floor. The finish manufacturer's suggested maintenance procedures should always be followed. If such data is not available, you need to determine if the finish is a wax finish, or a surface finish.

How to check the floor for wax finish
In an inconspicuous area, corner or behind a door, apply two (2) drops of water. If, within ten minutes, white spots appear under the drops of water, the floor has a wax finish. To remove the white spots, gently rub the spots with #000 steel wool dampened with wax. If the finish does not flake from scratching with a coin and white spots do not appear from the drops of water, the floor has a surface finish and should be maintained accordingly.

Maintaining a Surface Finish
Dust mop, sweep or vacuum regularly. Clean with a manufacturer's recommended cleaner. Recoat the floor with a surface finish when cleaning no longer restores shine. The frequency of recoating depends on the amount of traffic. A surface finished floor should never be waxed.

Maintaining a Penetrating Stain or Wax Finish
Dust mop or vacuum regularly. Buff to restore shine. Waxing may be necessary when buffing no longer restores shine. Apply a cleaner and liquid wax specifically for wood floors. Apply the wax evenly, allow the floor to dry and buff to the desired lustre. If the wood floor has dirt build up or the wax is discoloured, use a combination liquid cleaner/wax made specifically for wood flooring. Make sure it is solvent rather than water base. Spread the liquid cleaner/wax with a cloth or fine steel wool and rub gently to remove grime and old wax. Wipe the floor clean, let it dry for about 20 minutes and buff. Depending on the traffic, a properly maintained wood floor should need waxing once or twice a year.

Remember, it is extremely important to always use the floor manufacturer's cleaning and finish products and recommendations when known. We can supply our own cleaning products at Mckay Flooring and offer you the necessary advice.

Repairing Scratches and Removing Stains
Unlike most other floor coverings, wood is very forgiving. Most problems can be prevented by keeping the floors vacuumed and waxed (if you have a wax finished floor) and by wiping up spills immediately. If the wood flooring is damaged, first determine whether the scratches or stains are in the wood or in the top coat finish.

Penetrating Stained and Waxed Floors
If the scratches or stains are in the wood, the finish is probably a penetrating stain and wax.

Scratches: Repair by waxing the area.

Dried milk or food stains: Gently rub with damp cloth. Rub dry and wax. When removing stains from any wood floor always begin at the outer edge of the stain and work toward the middle.

Water stains or white spots: Rub spot with #000 steel wool and wax. If this fails, lightly sand with fine sandpaper and clean the area using #00 steel wool and mineral spirits or a wood floor cleaner. Allow the floor to dry. Stain, wax and hand buff.

Heel marks: Rub in small amount of wax with fine steel wool and hand buff to a shine.

Mold: Rub with a wood cleaner.

Chewing gum, crayon, candle wax: Apply a plastic bag filled with ice until the deposit is brittle enough to crumble off. Crayon or candle wax can be removed by placing an ink blotter on the wax and applying a hot pressing iron to the top of the blotter. Solvent-based wax can also be applied around the area to loosen the deposit.

Oil and grease stains: First rub area with kitchen soap having a high lye content or saturate cotton with hydrogen peroxide and place over the stain. Then saturate a second layer of cotton with ammonia and place over the first. Repeat until stain is removed. Let the area dry and then hand buff.

Dark spots (dog spots) and ink stains: Try the water spots treatment. If the spot remains, apply a household bleach or vinegar and allow it to soak for an hour. Rinse with a damp cloth, wipe dry and smooth with fine sandpaper. Stain, wax and hand buff.

Cigarette burns: If the burn is not very deep, rub the area with fine sandpaper or steel wool. Moisten the steel wool with wax for better results. If the burn is deep, scrape the area with a penknife to remove charred fibers. Rub the area with fine sandpaper. Stain, wax and hand buff.

Wax build up: Strip the old wax away with odourless mineral spirits or a wood floor product made for stripping wax. Use cloths and fine steel wool to remove all residue. After the floor is dry, wax and buff.
 

Surface Finished Floors
If the scratches or stains are in the finish (superficial), the finish is probably a surface finish.

Scratches: Repair with a touch-up kit made for urethane finishes which are available from any wood flooring retailer.

Food, water or dark spots (dog spots): Use a cleaner developed specifically for urethane finishes to remove the spot or stain. More stubborn spots may require additional scrubbing with the cleaner and a wood flooring scrub pad made for urethane floors.

Greasy spots: Rub the grease, lipstick, crayon or oil with a cleaner developed for urethane.

Cigarette burns: Most common burns can be treated with a touch-up kit made for urethane finishes (rub with sandpaper, stain and refinish). For burns that reach deep into the wood, individual plank or parquet boards may need to be replaced.

Chewing gum, crayon, wax: Apply a plastic bag filled with ice on top of the deposit until it is brittle enough to crumble off. Clean area with a product made for urethane finishes. Again, always use the wood flooring manufacturer's cleaning, repair and finish products when known.